Beijing, China (Days 1 & 2)

For a four day tour, we spent two days at the aiport and in planes so the advertising leaves a bit to be desired. Getting into China from Japan is a two step process. We flew from Fukuoka to Dalian. In Dalian, we went through immigration. It was pretty painless. We got there pretty late and all of the shops were closed. They opened them for us and we got to start ogling silks and get ideas for omiyage on the way home. After about an hour, we went on to Beijing where we went through customs. We met the tour guide just outside baggage claim and were on our way to the hotel (a 40+ minute drive in the evening traffic).

Now, the funny thing - we were 4 Americans (3 adults and a baby) on a Japanese tour. We were the ONLY people on the tour. Our guide was a Chinese woman that had been studying Japanese for 4 years. She spoke a little English. It was pretty darned entertaining.

We had a late dinner at the hotel - the seafood buffet was delicious and the sweet and sour pork to die for. They had made to order crepes and other fabulous desserts. Decadent stuff. The gift shop showed lots of promise. Tons of items - very reasonably priced. We got a peek of what we'd be in for on our shopping expeditions and were thrilled.

We woke early on day 2. Breakfast at the hotel was amazing. They had made to order crepes again for breakfast, omelettes to order, fresh french toast and waffles, fruits, pastries, dumplings (oh, YUM!), fried rice with raisins (OMG, delicious!) and a bounty of other delights that I ran out of room before I got to taste.

At 8am, we met our tour guide and we were off to Tienamen Square.

Let me digress a bit: It was cold. Not just chilly, but bone chilling, wind piercing your jacket, want to keep moving so you don't freeze in your spot cold. I was, stupidly, unprepared for this. I was warm enough, but very sorry I didn't at least bring a sweater to layer with and maybe my muffler. Oh well...

At Tienamen Square, we stared amazed at the line of people waiting to see Mao. Apparently in the winter, you only have to wait about an hour to get in and can view him for about 10 minutes. We decided to skip in favor of something less windy than standing in the middle of a paved square. The architecture around the square was amazing. The square itself is just huge. You feel very small just standing there. Everywhere were vendors offering to sell hats and gloves to the unprepared - I staunchly resisted, despite their zeal, and the temptation of the furred cap like the national guards wear.

Once done admiring the square, we took the underground tunnel to the other side of the street. This was MOST appreciated considering our route into Tienamen Square consisted or walking across a 6 lane street with no light and no crosswalk. Apparently honking means "I'm not stopping for you, stupid tourist" and we took care.

Across the square is the Gate of Heavenly Peace that leads into what the Japanese call the Kokyuu Museum. Turns out, that's the Forbidden City - delight! We began our walk through, admiring the emperor's road (the center lane of the path through the city, most often paved with very large stones covered with intricately carved dragons), and the father and mother lions (father stands on a ball, mother soothes a baby with her nail) that are a commmon theme. The architecture and grandeur is just astonishing. The carvings and paintings are detailed and eye catching. There is symbolism everywhere. It's truly amazing. It stretches on forever, too. The guide estimated it would take us 3 hours and I think we were there for 4. I could have spent many more just wandering from building to building and admiring the detail. Maybe I'll go back in the spring some day so I can enjoy it more. Near the end, we stopped at the requisite Starbucks to warm up and admired the art display in the gift shop.

Upon leaving the city, we drove to the Friendship Store. This is a total tourist trap. Upstairs, though, we were served a marvelous array of items for lunch. It was more than we could possibly eat, but each item was delicious. There were a variety of things from which to choose and most I have no idea what they were. The downstairs is gift central. They certainly have selection cornered. It was quite overwhelming to look through everything.

After the Friendship Store, we drove on to the Great Wall. We ended up at the Badaling section (which is the most reconstructed, and least authentic area). The drive there takes you through many of the mountains so you get to see many other pieces, though. It's remarkable to watch it spread and unfold before you. The wall itself - it's hard to describe the feeling just looking at it. It's immense. We opted for the lesser traveled left side of Badaling at a friend's suggestion. It was quite steep. I got past the 3rd tower and decided to head back. Given the number of people selling "I climbed the Great Wall" memorabilia at that point, I think it was a common turnaround point. Much of that stretch felt almost straight up and the rest looked worse. It was cold - did I mention there was snow on the wall? So neat to see. I was feeling wussy and wanted to give my travel companion a chance to climb - she'd stayed in the shop with the baby. Nevertheless, the view was astounding. You could see so much from even the distance I ascended to.

Once done at the Wall, we went to a tea tasting. I came home with lychee and rose teas that I will combine for delicious, self-sweetened cups of decadence. They are naturally caffeine free which I am really looking forward to in this caffeine rich society. Oh, my free gift was this little clay guy that you use to see if your tea water is hot enough. If you ever have tea with me, ask me to check the water. It's crude, but SO freaking funny.

After tea, it was off to learn about how silk is made. Fascinating stuff. I opted not to buy the silk comforters. (Though I regretted this last night as I lay freezing while Roo went to sleep. A $60 warm twin comforter with a delicious silk cover would have been delightful in there.) I picked up a dress for me and one for Roo, though. They had wonderful things, and I still can't get over how cheap it all is. We had to rush out of the shop as we were late for dinner.

Dinner - I cannot say enough about dinner. Beef that melted in your mouth and could be cut with a chopstick. Peking duck with plum sauce and rice flour wraps. Broccoli seasoned with something - sesame, maybe. I wasn't too keen on the spare ribs as they were pretty fatty, but everything else was just amazing. We ate it all, much to the disappointment of our tour guide. She feared it wasn't enough as the Chinese try to leave something when they are satisfied - being indulgent Americans, we couldn't leave a drop of such delicious stuff behind.

Then it was back to the hotel for blissful sleep. It was a long day, we were stuffed full and exhausted. Sleep came easy.